3. Working outwards, mosaic the four central rectangles. Look at where the bands overlap and aim your mosaic line to that it lines up with where it reappears. This is easier said than done! It is helpful to use a ruler to make sure that you are still on line when you come out on the other side. If the lines are wobbly here the final effect won't be as good, so it is worth taking care and spending time to get the lines heat.
4 Put in the next eight pearl tesserae. If you have worked nearly so far, these will line up, forming a near grid. Working outwards, continue to mosaic the knot until it is completed.
5 Finish off 'papering' the mosaic by laying down the black and pearl border and the surrounding black background area. When you have finished the mosaic, make a mould around it to contain the concrete. Prepare the surface with a releasing agent.
6 Sprinkle a small amount of fine silver sand onto the top surface of the mosaic and carefully brush into the interstices. The sand acts as a barrier and prevents the concrete from flowing under the tesserae onto the surface of the mosaic. Make sure that there is no sand left on the top surface of the mosaic as this will prevent the cement from keying.
7 Cut a piece of chicken wire to the same size as the slab. Place it in the mould to make sure it fits snugly. Any extra wire can be bent over and squashed down. When you are satisfied, remvoe the wire from the mould. Then mix the sand and cement in their dry state. Make a well in
the mixture and gradually add the water until the sand and cement are well mixed and of thick mud pie consistency. Slowly, pour this into the mould and when you have covered
the surface of the mosaic, add the chicken wire. Top up the mould with the remaining sand and cement.
8 Leave to harden for at least a week, then unscrew and remove the wooden battens by gently tapping them away with a hammer. Because they are only glued to the brown craft paper they will come away quite easily. Turn the slab over and remove the MDF board.
Soak off the paper (if the board has been properly waxed, the paper should peel away very easily), and using a toothbrush sweep away any excess sand that is still lying in the interstices. Grout and clean.
SUNDIAL
Smalti are beautiful, both to work and to look at. The rippled surface of this hand-made glass catches and plays with the light that falls on it, so what better thing to make with it than a sundial? I wanted to show how even when used very simply, it still enlivens and enhances the piece. The octagonal shape of the slab suggested that all I needed to do was to radiate alternating bands of orange and yellow smalti around the top surface of the dial and over the sides to create a jolly sunburst effect.
Overall Dimensions: 40 * 40 * 8 cm (16 * 16 *3 1/2 in)
Designer and maker: Martin cheek
1 yellow tesserae 1.5 kg (3 lb)
2 orange tesserae 1.5 kg (3 l1b)
YOU WILL NEED
Sundial and base
1 kg (2 lb) rapid set floor and walltile adhesive
Bowl
Grout speaker
Orange and yellow pastels or chalks
1 kg (2 lb) waterproof tile adhesive
Lollipop stick or metal modelling tool
Smalti mosaic tiles an shown above
Mosaic nippers
Safety spectacles
Rubber gloves
4 Put in the next eight pearl tesserae. If you have worked nearly so far, these will line up, forming a near grid. Working outwards, continue to mosaic the knot until it is completed.
5 Finish off 'papering' the mosaic by laying down the black and pearl border and the surrounding black background area. When you have finished the mosaic, make a mould around it to contain the concrete. Prepare the surface with a releasing agent.
6 Sprinkle a small amount of fine silver sand onto the top surface of the mosaic and carefully brush into the interstices. The sand acts as a barrier and prevents the concrete from flowing under the tesserae onto the surface of the mosaic. Make sure that there is no sand left on the top surface of the mosaic as this will prevent the cement from keying.
7 Cut a piece of chicken wire to the same size as the slab. Place it in the mould to make sure it fits snugly. Any extra wire can be bent over and squashed down. When you are satisfied, remvoe the wire from the mould. Then mix the sand and cement in their dry state. Make a well in
the mixture and gradually add the water until the sand and cement are well mixed and of thick mud pie consistency. Slowly, pour this into the mould and when you have covered
the surface of the mosaic, add the chicken wire. Top up the mould with the remaining sand and cement.
8 Leave to harden for at least a week, then unscrew and remove the wooden battens by gently tapping them away with a hammer. Because they are only glued to the brown craft paper they will come away quite easily. Turn the slab over and remove the MDF board.
Soak off the paper (if the board has been properly waxed, the paper should peel away very easily), and using a toothbrush sweep away any excess sand that is still lying in the interstices. Grout and clean.
SUNDIAL
Smalti are beautiful, both to work and to look at. The rippled surface of this hand-made glass catches and plays with the light that falls on it, so what better thing to make with it than a sundial? I wanted to show how even when used very simply, it still enlivens and enhances the piece. The octagonal shape of the slab suggested that all I needed to do was to radiate alternating bands of orange and yellow smalti around the top surface of the dial and over the sides to create a jolly sunburst effect.
Overall Dimensions: 40 * 40 * 8 cm (16 * 16 *3 1/2 in)
Designer and maker: Martin cheek
1 yellow tesserae 1.5 kg (3 lb)
2 orange tesserae 1.5 kg (3 l1b)
YOU WILL NEED
Sundial and base
1 kg (2 lb) rapid set floor and walltile adhesive
Bowl
Grout speaker
Orange and yellow pastels or chalks
1 kg (2 lb) waterproof tile adhesive
Lollipop stick or metal modelling tool
Smalti mosaic tiles an shown above
Mosaic nippers
Safety spectacles
Rubber gloves
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