WICK SUSTAINERS
These are small, round metal disks about 1 cm (1/2 in) in diameter, which hold the wick. You can either buy these on their own or already attached to primed wick for container candles.
PRIMED WICK
This is wick that has been put into molten wax, taken out immediately and then straightened. This stiffens it and is useful for some candle-making methods. It is also good to prime the wick that will protrude from the finished candle as it make the candle easier to light. Wicks for floating candles should always be primed so they do not draw up water.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the wick is just slightly too small, the candle will drip. When making wider candles, if the wick is much too small it will burn down the middle of the candle. If this happens, save the candle and refill it.
If the wick is too large, the candle will burn with a large flame and will smoke. Even one faulty candle can produce a large amount of smoke which can ruin a room's decoration. This can be avoided by cutting off surplus wick as it burns.
Having chosen the correct wick, it is very important to position the wick securely in the centre of the candle. If the wick leans to one side, the candle will drip and burn very quickly and could be dangerous. If making candles in glass containers, the glass will crack if the flame touches the side.
CANDLE MOULDS
It is now possible to buy a large variety of ready-made candle moulds. These come in a variety of forms:
PLASTIC MOULDS
These are available in both clear plastic (which is useful when you need to see what you are doing) and opaque plastic. They are easy to use and will last for a great many candles if handled with care. They produce professional results, but temperature control is essential as the moulds may melt if pouring in wax that has been heated above 82 degrees c (180 degrees F). A plastic mould has been used in the shell project.
METAL MOULDS
Metal moulds are similar to plastic, but they last forever. They have the added advantage in that they will not buckle if extremely hot wax is poured in.
LATEX MOULDS
Latex moulds are used when you want to make a candle in a particular shape. To use them, thread the wick in through the tip of the mould using a wicking needle. Then coat the inside of the mould with mould release, pour in the wax and support the mould in a suitable container while the wax cools.
You can make you own latex moulds of a chosen object using liquid latex and a non-porous master. Here we have used an orange.
First wash the orange or chosen object in hot soapy water to remove any grease. Place the orange on a surface as an old plate. Following the manufacturer's instructions, mix the latex with a little thickener. Using a brush, paint the latex over the object. You will need to apply several layers in order to build the latex up to a thickness of 3 mm (1/8 in). Allow the latex to dry until it is just sticky between coats. The mould should be left to dry overnight before peeling off the master.
All kinds of household objects make very satisfactory candle moulds. Try using milk or yoghurt cartons for block candles, bun tins or chocolate moulds for small floating candles, or large cake tins for multi-wicked candles. Take a look around your kitchen and you will be surprised at how many kitchen objects can be adpated. If using old plastic containers take care not to pour in wax over 82 degrees C (180 degrees F)
CARDBOARD MOULDS
A cardboard mould is used for the project pyramid candle. Cardboard is ideal for making candles when the wax is poured in at a very cold temperature, producing a white, scaly effect. If you try to make candles like this in an ordinary mould, you may not be able so remove them from the mould as they may not have contracted enough.
OPEN ENDED MOULDS
It is possible to make candles in a mould which does not have a base. The floating candles floating hearts made with cake cutters show one method. Alternatively, you can surround the base of the mould with mould seal and then pour in the wax.
To position the wick when using open ended moulds, either stick it to your work surface with mould seal, or make a hole in a piece of wood or stiff card, thread the wick through and seal it underneath with mould seal in the usual way.



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